Where a Food Writer Gets Their Recs
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Good evening from Paris! I am off from work and bopping around the city with no schedule and nothing planned but one (!) reservation. I can’t wait to share everything I eat this week as a much-needed extension of my December Paris itinerary.
out-of-Town: A Paris Itinerary
Since getting off the plane from Paris less than 24 hours ago, I have already had an elderly man sit at the open seat at my table to silently enjoy his rice noodles, a stranger’s dog in a wheelchair park itself between my crossed legs, and eaten a spicy half-sour on the Union Square L platform. Being back in Brooklyn feels comforting, and my jet lag has…
If you’re impatient, I am posting alllll my meals (mostly every course, depending on my photography skills after x glasses of wine) on the right on Franklin Instagram.
Writing every week still feels like a new practice for me, even though I’ve now been doing it for 18 months. It feels strange in some ways, mostly because I get tired of my own voice. I’m also fully aware that there are writers—far better than I am—who’ve been doing this for decades. Those are the people I most want to write like. People with such strong, sincere, and smart voices, who can make any dish leap off the page. It’s an incredible skill, and one I work toward every week.
To feel inspired and to feel as though I am learning and improving with every letter I write, I try to read other people’s writing as much as humanly possible. Novels and memoirs and short stories are part of my normal reading rotation, but keeping other food writing in the mix is an important addition. For the most part, it helps me become a better writer. Beyond writing technique or general inspiration, though, I also need a recommendation every once in a while.
From the very beginning, my whole thing with Right on Franklin was to only recommend places I’ve actually been. But there are a billion places in New York, and one girl can’t get to them all. Beyond that, there are so many cities I haven’t spent real time in, or I’ve only visited once, which isn’t enough to form a clear sense of where to go and what to eat. I’m pretty good at figuring things out on my own, but I also love going to trusted sources to see what I can dig up. Many of these trusted sources are incredibly talented writers and people with amazing taste. Many of them have also worked at Chez Panisse at some point in their careers. I don’t think that’s a coincidence.
In Paris, for example, I have a good sense of the dining landscape—this is my third visit, which officially makes it the city outside the U.S. I’ve been to the most. Even so, I know that
knows the city back and forth, and has undeniably good taste. I love to take his recommendations. is also known for her impeccable taste, and has been the source of many amazing spots provided by my sister. She’s got you covered in cities around the world which, frankly, is an incredible feat. is an incredible writer, from Q+As with industry friends to thoughtful stories about LA restaurants. I know I am in good hands with anywhere she might direct me.
My friends
, , , and are all beautiful writers with whom I share a lot of taste when it comes to food and dining experiences—anywhere they love, I feel pretty confident I will love too.I also can’t overstate how transformative a few authors have been for me in truly understanding how powerful writing about food can be—and how far it can take you. More than that, I’ve found myself reading their books with such care and patience, not wanting to finish, just so I can savor the words a little longer.
is easily the most gifted writer I’ve ever encountered, and the fact that she’s on Substack is such a treat. Tender at the Bone is the book I recommend most often to friends, and one I wish I could read forever. The way Ruth strings words together is nothing short of magic. Buy it here!
Saying that Gabrielle Hamilton, chef/owner of the famed Prune in New York, is a good writer is the understatement of the century. Blood, Bones, & Butter—which I’m truthfully only halfway through because I don’t want it to be over— is another testament to the ways chefs can magically convey how they were introduced to food and found their way into the industry. The way Gabrielle articulates her childhood, writes about her family, and depicts scenes of entering the restaurant world is unlike anything I’ve read before. I can’t recommend it enough.You can buy it here!
Yes, I loved Kitchen Confidential. It may or may not be an annual re-read.
Samin Nosrat, whose Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat is a map to flavor and being successful in the kitchen also just launched on Substack and I can’t wait to hang onto every last word!
A few other things I’m consuming:
The Kitchen Shrink is the best newsletter on this platform from the ever-talented
, who is about to publish yet ANOTHER book, which you can pre-order here. and are two other chefs who make me want to get elbow-deep in bowls of butter and flour. , , and have also cemented my plating aspirations—one day I will make things look that good before hitting the table.
You’ll all get a BIG Paris round up next Monday. In the meantime…who are you reading? Share your favorite food writers! The people inspiring you! I want to read it :)
Xo
🫶 keep up the good work :)
This is the honor of a lifetime