I’m sitting under a pale blue sky in Sawyer, Michigan, listening to TV girl and thinking about breakfast food.
August feels especially reminiscent of summer camp, sleeping in, and sunny side up eggs late in the morning. Maybe it’s the day off , but the sense of ease August always brings is so refreshing before holiday seasons ramp up at work, or school starts, or winter hints at its impending arrival. It feels like the perfect time for rest, even indulgently so, and crossing things off a never-ending to do list of books unread, friends unseen, meals uncooked. I’m not a huge fan of heat, especially in New York’s recent incessant humidity, but August is really growing on me.
I flew to Chicago on Wednesday to see Marley, my most enduring and unwavering long distance relationship, a friendship I would get on a plane for (I hate planes). It helps that I get to be in a fun city, see her entire family, and travel to Michigan on weekends to escape to the lake. I’ve been making this trip bimonthly for the last two years, when Marley and I stopped being roommates after 4 years of living in very close quarters. She comes to New York, the next month I go to Chicago, and just like that we’re able to overcome what, for me at least, looked a lot like separation anxiety after a LOT of togetherness.
The result of so many trips has been the a growing affection for Chicago. I felt unsure about it at first, and even more unsure when my winter visit brought temperatures deep in the negatives. The more I explore the city though, the more I love it. It will never be New York, but that’s part of the appeal. I’ve had memorable evenings here and a few favorite meals. Marley and I recounted our recent highlights across my Chicago visits and, somewhat unsurprisingly, they were all breakfasts. It only felt right that a Midwest August weekend in the sunshine coincide with a special breakfast feature. August, vacation, big breakfasts, breaks from the city all feel synonymous to me.
Here is what is sure to be a growing list of my favorite breakfasts (and top meals) in Chicago. Happy days :)
Lula Cafe
It just so happens that I have to visit Lula every time I am in Chicago, and it just so happens it is now a 10 minute walk from Marley’s apartment. It’s like she moved down the street just for me!!
Lula’s un-fussiness is part of its magic; the charm of a sunny table without any frills, minimal decorations and underplayed details is what makes it special. It is the kind of place you will want to return to again and again to try all the hits and ever-changing seasonal specials. Lula also feels so not-New York in the best way. There are no attitudes from staff or egregious wait times—if you do show up at a peak hour, guests nod with a smile and go for a stroll to the neighboring bookstore or farmer’s market. It is not exclusive, it is just popular. It is not fancy, it is just nice. It is simple and really good, and just elevated enough to feel like a real treat.
The food has never even remotely let me down. Even if it did, I think I would still be happy to sit there. The salads here are ridiculous—a plate of crisp leafy greens with vinegar or miso-ridden dressings holds its own alongside a french omelet with stracciatella and buttered fennel toast. Their turmeric granola makes easily the best yogurt bowl I have ever had—I tried to make it at home but couldn’t do it justice. The pomegranate seeds are little jewels of tanginess adding a freshness to cut the richness of the yogurt and buttery granola.
I haven’t even been for dinner—but I have been a handful of times for breakfast alone. Every time I panic order, and every time it is perfect. Jason Hammel is doing really good things and it seems everyone has officially taken notice.
Dove’s Luncheonette
To me, Dove’s is the gold standard. It’s for leisurely brunches with a few bloody mary’s before a cubs game, or for seeing the entire Bear cast enjoy some eggs at 10am. Dove’s is for friendly bartenders and good coffee, perfect eggs and stupid good pancakes.
The first time Marley and I went to Dove’s was far and away one of my favorite Chicago days. It felt like fate that we found two empty bar seats among a packed brunch, next to Dove’s regulars visiting their favorite bartender. We sat for hours and drank more than we planned, made friends with our neighbors and left impossibly full. It felt even more like fate when we went back to re-experience the magic of the morning a month-or-so prior and saw Jeremy, Ayo, and Ebon posted up at the counter getting their fix of masa pancakes. That feels like a good indication of how good it is.
With records being carefully selected by the barkeep and a small kitchen slinging out eggs and burgers, red leather stools are happily populated at all times and there is a constant hum of cheery, though sleepy, chatting.
One of few places I will go and get the same thing virtually every time, Dove’s is so good at eggs even though it is 1/10th of their menu. The breakfast menu is notably meat-forward, and even convinced me to order hash once. I picked around most of the brisket, but couldn’t resist a few bites. Look at that picture! The egg plate is a little bit of everything I love: crispy potatoes, over easy eggs, texas toast and their house chili oil. Always ask for a side of chipotle aioli, and definitely order the masa pancakes—it comes with whipped agave butter and mole-spiced syrup. Ugh.
Sugar Moon
Couldn’t tell you where I heard about Sugar Moon but I dragged poor Marley over at 9am one bitterly cold winter morning a few months ago. The line, luckily, was only a handful of people long and I was more than happy to wait. Marley, who can’t eat gluten, was a very good sport as I ooh-ed and aah-ed at the selection inside. Do you see that scone? A chai cinnamon roll? I, one person, ordered for about four people, and forced pastries on Marley’s boyfriend and his friends for the rest of the day.
I have never been so paralyzed by the sheer amount of options I felt like I absolutely needed. I think I selected pretty well, given the circumstances. Sugar Moon’s scones were dense yet flaky with the appropriate amount of jalapeno and also, enormous. The chai spice roll was the fluffiest, most decadent, and probably most perfectly-executed cinnamon roll I have ever had. Don’t be fooled by my poor photography of that chocolate cookie, it was fresh out of the oven and tasted exactly like hot chocolate. Just perfect for a total sugar rush and losing all self-control.
Honorable mentions this week that have truly seen me at my worst:
Janik’s Cafe: A perfect hangover cure
Nookies: Ditto^ and somehow one of the best omelets I have ever had.
Only one on the want to go list this week…
Spinning J, the universe is conspiring against me trying Marley (and most of Chicago’s) favorite breakfast place. Truly priority #1 my next visit to Chicago.
Am I missing anything…?
Seeing Chicago has been rare on Substack. Excited to read this! Bang bang pie is also delish. Some great coffee options in West Loop are Sawada, Drip Collective, VietFive and personal favorite 4LW at Estero Fulton Market!
This is amazing Olive! It's helping me rediscover my city. I haven't been to Dove's in years but now I won't let the summer end without a visit. You failed to mention all the beautiful breakfasts you've made, one that specifically comes to mind is the delightful spring onion omelet you cheffed up. Come back soon!