One of the more exciting opportunities I have had in the last year was the opportunity to get on the phone with Mads Refslund, a name with a Michelin-star-studded resume. The Chef and Owner behind ILIS—Greenpoint’s newest venture into fine dining—moved to New York from Denmark 12 years ago and has spent years building a restaurant of his own.
Once I got over the nerves of what felt like a cold call, I got swept up in a conversation about living in New York, the city’s food scene, the challenges (that never end) of opening a restaurant, and our favorite places to eat. With the chance to pick Mads’ brain, I couldn’t help but ask how it feels for his name and new restaurant to always be side-by-side with his previous venture, Noma, a three-michelin star restaurant that is repeatedly named the number one restaurant in the world. His answer, in short, was that comparison is the thief of joy—to fully appreciate ILIS for what it is, it’s best to check all of your presumptions about Mads at the door.
The conversation was brief, just over 30 minutes, but the moment we hung up, I started writing. To capture someone’s pursuit of excellence and the passion that accompanies their occupation was a thrilling challenge. I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again, chefs are always the best people to talk to.
With a handful of notes and choppy paragraphs under my belt, I went to ILIS for what would be a 3.5 hour meal my my old friend Lena, the founder of Spaced Magazine. I was overwhelmed and frankly, a little giddy. Music echoed through the space and the entire team was tuned into their pre-shift tasks; we watched as the kitchen prepped dishes that would soon be carried to our tables. It was intoxicating to be a part of such an incredibly interesting project—something truly new in the world of fine dining.
Our coursed out meal was a celebration of seasonal ingredients and the many ways they could be manipulated to create entirely new flavors. Every bite was surprising and exciting, and always better than I thought it could be. I will be thinking about the trumpet mushrooms for a long time.
While this newsletter has been a solo venture, it is so special to share these experiences with others, have opportunities to meet new people, visit new restaurants, and be able to write about it all along the way. Plus, when else would I be presented a drink in a zucchini, or a dessert surrounded by a wheatgrass crown??
If you would like to read the full piece and see the incredible photos Lena took of the meal, you can find it all on Spaced.
Until next time!
Olivia! I’m so excited for you. What an incredible experience. You write so well, I feel like I was there with you.