The platonic ideal croissant has three defining characteristics: flavor, flake, and bite. As a non-professional pastry chef but a professional judge of pastries, I am seldom thinking about technique or number of layers, so much as I am thinking about the texture of what I am eating and whether it has a distinct flavor.
In my mind, there are two kinds of croissants. First, there are packaged croissants (think Costco, Trader Joes, airport croissants, the croissants that you know they mass produce and send to all the coffee shops across the city). These are delicious and serve a very specific purpose whether it be easy breakfast, quick snack, or the perfect base for a bitching breakfast sandwich. Then, there are fresh croissants, this is what you find fresh in the morning at bakeries, can smell from a block away, and will leave a trail of crumbs in your wake. It is my firm belief that not all fresh croissants are created equal. So many people have mastered croissant making, and so many bakeries have claimed theirs is the best (or gotten food bloggers to substantiate that claim for them). With many executing the croissant in the most basic sense, there must still be croissants that will blow you away. Memorable croissants are important, and finding them was the impetus for this week’s newsletter. I am eager to share my findings, as the number one fan of a plain croissant, and appreciate you all being here for the ride.
Mel The Bakery
For years I have been claiming that Mel is the best croissant in New York, and even now that it has moved upstate to Hudson, I will die on that hill.
The year following graduation I saw my favorite bakery in the city post a call for FOH staff. Despite having a 9-5, I applied and began working there every weekend. While it turns out a bakery job supplementing a full time job is not the most sustainable lifestyle, being at Mel, surrounded by talented bakers and the best pastries in the city, brought me so much joy. Over the course of that year, I tried every single pastry and bread that they produced, and was so inspired by Nora Allen, the head baker and owner of Mel, who built the most incredible bakery with an ethos and clientele that was one-of-a-kind. I was devastated when the LES location closed and the news arrived that Nora was taking her amazing croissants upstate, but they are absolutely crushing it up there and I can not wait to take a day trip for some treats!
I will keep it short—this is the best croissant that has ever graced New York City. Point blank. Mel uses sourdough starter in everything they produce, with flours and special ingredients sourced from friends and colleagues. Everything is made with care, and incorporates exciting flavors without being gimmicky. If you go, you must try the chocolate chip cookie, plain croissant, cinnamon roll (with croissant dough), ham and cheese croissant, and whatever special danishes they are rolling out. Or just get one of everything, especially the rugbrød.
Winner
7th Ave and 11th St, Franklin and Sterling, Prospect Park
There is, what seems to be, a growing empire scattering across Brooklyn dishing out some of the best bread around. Winner decided bread was not enough, and that they would also excel at pastries. They also decided to make the best sandwiches, open a butcher, a restaurant, and the cutest little cafe in Prospect Park. Winner (and its many siblings) literally does it all. Surprisingly, I have seen very little coverage of their baked good and pastries—I fear my distance from Park Slope made me complicit in this lack of recognition.
It wasn’t until I moved to Prospect Heights and I walked by Winner on Franklin every morning en route to the subway that I realized how good I had it. Important recognition is also due to my friend Ethan who works at Winner in Park Slope and aided in my appreciation for their baked goods (and enterprise as whole). While Winner and I are in a fight right now (they don’t know it) because they just discontinued my favorite scone in the entire world (rip raisin bran scone I miss you), they do still deserve their accolades for how good their croissants are.
Like Mel, the Winner croissants are sourdough. They have an incredibly flaky exterior and a soft interior, as any good croissant would. What sets the Winner croissant apart is the flavor—it doesn’t just take like butter, or a vaguely sweet pastry. They have accomplished a distinct, slightly sour flavor that is both sweet and savory, complex yet simply delicious. Croissants shouldn't be boring or bland—the plain ones should have flavor too!!! Make the journey to Park Slope or Franklin Av, or better yet, Winner in the Park in the summer, and get yourself a plain croissant. Try everything else too (scones, cookies, bread, and special pastries are all noteworthy), but make sure you pay special attention to the plain guy pictured below.
Nick + Sons
This is almost always the first place I tell people when they ask about my favorite croissant. Just off the beaten path in Williamsburg, Nick + Sons is a croissant worth waking up early and going on a little journey to procure. While they are only open on the weekends and prone to selling out, I can actually promise you you’ll thank me for the recommendation once you recover from your mild annoyance. The tiny space is filled with fresh pastries and is a sight to behold, one worth dragging yourself out of bed on a Saturday and waiting in line for. Their offerings are written out on a sign outside of the door, that you’ll eagerly squint to try to discern while waiting behind other patrons. I do think this format induces a certain amount of panic, as you won’t know exactly what is available until it is nearly your turn, leaving you with hardly enough time to make the impossible decision of what exactly to order.
This is a perfect croissant. The plain, chocolate, ham and cheese, za’atar, all worthy of trying—perhaps even in one sitting. They are INSANE, fluffy, flaky, golden brown croissants that won’t coat your fingers in butter but will probably cover you in crumbs. You really must go, and soon, because The Infatuation also just wrote about it (this has been drafted for months but ok) and I am sure the lines will only grow. Get literally anything you can get your hands on, especially the plain and za’atar. If you have other favorites from them please let me know I need guidance for my next visit to prevent me from spending $50 on buttery treats. Thanks!
Honorable mentions to add to your croissant tour:
Le Fournil An unassuming French bakery that genuinely blew me away and was a very close contender for top three.
La Bicyclette A growing bakery that feels like France where you can see the talented team in the back shaping bread and pastries!
La Cabra It’s better than the cardamom bun I think, also my favorite matcha in the city even though it is fully $8.
Paloma A really wonderful Greenpoint coffee shop that just added a new space to expand their pastry capabilities!
Here is where has been on my mind lately that I want to visit!
As the MOM of Ethan and a huge fan of WINNER I’m with you on all of the above. Especially that scone. R.I.P. or share the damn recipe. I’ve also been trying to reproduce that incredible chocolate chip malt cookie. When’s the cookbook coming out? 🙄
All these guides are so so good!!! I’m currently in the midst of planning a trip to Boston with family - does anyone have a good Boston eating guide?