Can we reimagine the New York Happy Meal?
You deserve a few drinks and more than just french fries.
In the last couple of months delving into restaurants across budgets and boroughs, we have yet to dive into the New York bar scene. Just to get this out of the way, I would hardly consider myself an expert on the best bars in New York. I am too picky to make that ranking. I do, however, know a thing or two about where to go for several drinks when dinner (or a lot of snacks) has to be part of the deal.
Someone took the phrase “New York Happy Meal” and ran with it in the last year, having made the decision that a martini and fries is a quintessential New Yorker combo. My issue with the New York Happy Meal (can I abbreviate to NYHM?) is that it ties down a snack/meal with huge potential. That is 1. not enough food and 2. a little boring! While I appreciate the collective sentiment of the New Yorker indulging in two things that, when done well, are done really well, I feel the New York Happy Meal is missing what wine and cocktail bars have eagerly incorporated into their business model—an exciting small plate. There are a lot of places in New York where you can drink with no food involved, and just as many places where ordering anything other than fries would probably be a mistake. However, there are a good number of spots where the drinks are the highlights but the food can rightfully hold its own. We can collectively do better than french fries, don’t tie yourself down like that.
Some housekeeping…
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Karasu
In all honesty, going to Karasu expecting a full meal to soak up your drinks is probably a mistake. I always enjoy my visits here—the food is as well done and the drinks are exciting. If you would like to have a few cocktails too many with a side of sweet potato, this is definitely your spot.
I resent calling anything a speakeasy and can’t stand how mundane this characteristic has become in the city, so instead I will call Karasu a concealed cocktail bar. Located behind an inconspicuous door in the very back of Walter’s, an American restaurant located just off Fort Greene Park, this is a fun and intimate spot perfect for a drink-forward meal with friends, date-night, or perhaps when you’re sick of crowded bars and well drinks. My suggestions: crudos and salads are hits, the Yaki Imo, a Japanese Sweet Potato with Nori Miso Butter is perfectly simple, the clams and scallops are fresh and delicious, and definitely try a larger format dish too. My additional suggestion would be to not order a Last Word and a drink called “Night Night” and only splitting 4 oysters and one potato. I learned that the hard way :)
Karasu as a whole is very well-executed—it feels special without being pretentious and it is elevated without being over-the-top. I have never walked in here without a reservation and I feel like you would probably be fine, but there are so few seats I would suggest booking ahead.
*Reservations open a month out*
El Pingüino
El Pingüino was the best discovery to come of Hallie, my sister, moving to Greenpoint. The Spanish seafood bar sitting next to Transmitter Park is my favorite place to sit outdoors in warmer months. A simple, modern interior sits behind a cobalt blue door, with a few coveted booths, small free-standing tables, and a handful of bar stools. The true highlight of this spot though is its first-come first-served backyard, with unpretentious furniture spread across a tiled patio.
Okay, quantity-wise I am not sure the dishes are actually larger here than Karasu, but I have a really hard time limiting what I’m ordering. This is mostly due to the fact that Pingüino serves all of my favorite things: oysters, tinned fish, Gildas (skewers with anchovy, olives, and guindilla peppers), bread and butter, and every raw bar item you could ever dream of. Most importantly, this is my favorite martini in New York. Please go and order a dirty vodka martini *with* a Gilda. It is the perfect snack/garnish/spicy/salty bite. It is also a perfect martini! That’s a big deal.
Go on a sunny evening for happy hour—order oysters, martinis, Gildas, bread, and a tinned fish served with saltines and aioli. Perfect drink + dinner (?) large snack (?) You can decide for yourself.
*Indoor seats are predominantly reservation only, backyard is always first-come first-served.*
The Fly
The third of an unbeatable trifecta—The Fly is owned by the brilliant minds behind Hart’s and Cervo’s and brings young, playful energy to the restaurant group. The Fly is home to my personal favorite bar seating in all of New York—it is loud and lively, the music is good, and the food and drinks are everything the ambience promises. This is a true ol’ reliable* with a short and sweet menu that knows what it’s doing and does it well.
The Fly is a self-proclaimed “chicken bar,” which offers a perfect and simple description of a perfect and simple spot. The gist is a small, chicken-focused menu that includes a whole chicken, a half chicken, a chicken sandwich, and a few important supplements.
My order is virtually always the same, a sherry fizz if I am looking for something lighter, a white negroni or a mezcal margarita for something stronger, a caesar salad and a side of fries. These are, in fact, the best fries to eat with a martini, served with ketchup and aioli. So if a traditional New York Happy Meal is what you’re after, I’d suggest you scratch that itch here. Additionally, the wine list shouldn’t be ignored, the caesar salad might be my favorite in the city and they have a ridiculous veggie sandwich that is worth ordering. They also do vegetables and specials… very well. Keep an eye out for the corn, brussel sprouts, and chicken wings. This is a spot that will never disappoint you and is good for almost any occasion, even if you have to wait a few minutes for a seat. Who doesn’t want fries and chicken to pair with their evening drinks?
The Fly encapsulates the the intention for this week’s newsletter— drinks with a side of really good food. It is fun, easy, and never gets old. I am veryyy much looking forward to frequenting their sidewalk tables again in the warmer months—any takers?
*The Fly is walk-in only*
The top of the list this week…
C as in Charlie (Due to visit Friday and can not wait)
Thank you for reading and see you next week!!!
falansai <3 you really have to go. and when you do please say hello to my old block for meeeee
I like your ‘no rules’ attitude about what meal can consist of. Maybe start with dessert? A martini and fries sounds so good.