Yesterday I was en route to an engagement in Union Square when my plans were derailed. I found myself driving through the midtown tunnel with a suddenly clear schedule—a strange, and rare, Sunday morning with endless possibilities. If I had let myself think too much about where I wanted to go, I would’ve been driving up and down 2nd Ave forever. Instead, I set my sights on the first place that came to mind, a favorite East Village spot where I had not yet had brunch—Yellow Rose. I waited 10 minutes for a seat at the bar and enjoyed the quickest, easiest, solo brunch of all time. I have had a brunch newsletter queued up for a bit but yesterday was one of the few days where I really appreciated the purpose brunch serves, so this felt like the right time to share some thoughts on the topic.
We love it and we hate it, and we really love to hate it… but brunch can be so good, and the following write-up is proof (in my humble opinion). These restaurants are places I go back to over and over again and honestly have tempted to convert me to being a brunch person. I think you’ll see why, at least via the length of this week’s newsletter. You get a prize if you read it all!
On an entirely different note, I was just in Los Angeles for the first time ever and have a lot of thoughts on what I ate there… so stay tuned for another edition of out-of-Town next week.
Sailor
Did you guys see that video I posted on Instagram of french toast that looked like a sundae? That video doesn’t even do it justice but is a good indicator of a front-to-back perfect brunch. A new addition to the ever-buzzy Dekalb Ave in Fort Greene, Sailor is a nautical American bistro with an optimal set up for a great mid-morning meal. I know they say not to judge a book by its cover, and I try not to, but this might be an exception. Sailor’s brick exterior is complete with navy blue trim and striped awning, white curtains that cover only the bottom quarter of their enormous windows, and its name stamped in gold on the window.
Stepping inside the space, especially at 11am, it is almost shocking how bright it is from the natural light cascading in through the walls of windows, lighting up the otherwise dark, washed brick walls, copper and wood accents, and navy blue paint. A nautical theme runs the risk of being kitschy, but Sailor feels sophisticated, light, and airy. The small space is not overly crowded, even with a full house.
Hallie and I walked to our table past a marble countertop with a tray of vanilla sugared donuts, which inspired some serious giddiness. When that is the first thing you see walking into a restaurant, it is always a good sign.
Obviously we started with the vanilla sugar donut, a beautifully light brioche donut rolled in vanilla bean sugar—they don’t waste the donut holes, they just pop them out and put them right on top of the donut. That is innovation I like to see. The french toast followed, a thick cut piece of brioche doused in maple syrup and topped with a very generous serving of a vanilla bean cream. The french toast was custardy but not eggy, rich but not overly dense, sweet but not abrasive. It was really outstanding, I have no notes. Hallie ordered the Turkish eggs, perfectly poached eggs on a bed of yogurt, with a beautiful herb and sesame garnish and a house made crispy fried flatbread for dipping. It was fresh and flavorful and hit all the right texture notes. I ordered a confit vegetable and gruyere quiche which was by far the best quiche I have ever had (huge praise, I have eaten many). The fluffy eggs and the flaky crust, with a very bright and bitter side salad, was a perfect plate in my eyes. I want that quiche every weekend, forever.
This is a really good place to spend your morning, and I am dying to go back, even if it means getting up early on a Sunday.
*Reservations open on Mondays at 11am for the following week*
Vinegar Hill House
Tried and true and perfect in every way, Vinegar Hill House is a destination worth traipsing too-close-to-Dumbo for. On a quiet residential cobblestone street that looks like it belongs upstate, Vinegar Hill House has a huge presence. Their unassuming entryway opens up to the coooooziest little dining room, with a beautiful enclosed backyard I dream of during cold months, and a downstairs dining room with fire side seating. Their produce-driven menu is consistent, yet flexible. Their dinner menu is often a more adventurous Americana bistro vibe, where the brunch feels a bit more relaxed, and makes for very easy ordering—if you go back weekly to switch your order around, that is. I have come here for brunch countless times, sat in every corner of the restaurant, and have always been greeted with such warmth, a really sincere staff, and most importantly, delicious coffee.
First order of business, the sourdough pancake is a must-order. It is to die for. The large pancake made with sourdough starter is crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, heightened by its syrup-absorbing capabilities. The tangy sourdough flavor really comes through, balanced with a huge pad of butter and plenty of sweet syrup. Most importantly, the pancake always contains a fresh, seasonal fruit that changes as the kitchen sees fit. I have had apple, blueberry, and strawberry to name a few. I think apple was my favorite but it feels insane, and incorrect, to have to choose.
Unfortunately for us all this menu feels like a no-skip album. Ordering the whole menu would be objectively ridiculous for a small party but there is so little repetition, and really hits all the notes of a stellar breakfast-lunch. My personal favorites are the Smoked Steelhead Trout plate, a beautiful plate of smoked fish, a soft boiled egg, toast, and pickles (what breakfast dreams are made of), the Spinach, Caramelized Onion, and Fontina Quiche, and the leek and Comte French Omelette. Hallie would argue the Egg and Époisses sandwich on brioche is a necessity though she likes to swap the brioche for a crusty bread to balance out the soft egg and melty Époisses cheese. Also, they do these little pots of roasted potatoes with creme fraiche and chopped up jalapeño peppers on top. YUM.
*You can book two full months out here—reservations are not super hard to get, but for prime brunch definitely plan ahead*
Agi’s Counter
One of the highlights of my move last fall was that Agi’s was now in my neighborhood, not even a 10 minute walk from my door. Withstanding my general aversion to brunch, Agi’s is somewhere I want to get out of bed for.
Jeremy Salamon, the chef behind the Eastern European operation, has already racked up James Beard nominations and a Michelin Bib Gourmand, as well as lengthy praise in many publications since its opening in 2021. This is all for good reason, Salamon has built something very special at Agi’s, beyond a very good brunch.
The cafe sits on Franklin, just off of Eastern Parkway. As advertised, the space is built around one long counter, with a handful of small tables surrounding it. I love sitting at a bar, so counter service breakfast is subjectively the best. The space is light and quaint, with paneled white walls, white terrazzo marble, and those incredible old-school diner plates. In the daylight, it has a neighborhood-coffee-shop feel, while being a Michelin recognized restaurant… which is quite a feat to achieve. The brunch menu is brief, and I think can come across unassuming. There is no way for you to really know that you are about to have the best tuna melt of your life, or that Pogacsa and Palacsinta were things missing from your life. I can tell you, you’re in for a treat.
The food here is just ridiculous. Starting with the Pogacsa, the soft biscuit with a fried egg, smooth alpine cheddar cheese, and mayo sounds so simple. It is small but mighty and executes what many attempt to and fail, the egg and cheese on a biscuit without it being too much biscuit!! This biscuit was made for an egg sandwich. A+. The sugared grapefruit is a favorite of mine—even though I find grapefruits very difficult to eat. Two large wedges of grapefruit are caramelized to have a sweet, crackly exterior with a juicy and tart interior, served with enormous griddled pullman bread with a small pot of salted yogurt. The bread + yogurt + grapefruit bright is honestly life-changing. The Palacsinta, Hungarian crepes, are a buttery, sweet pile of paper thin, tender pancakes with butter and whipped cream and a rotating addition of seasonal fruits. I think this one does itself justice and sounds just as incredible as it is. The Country Club plate has all my favorite things, the hash browns are salted to perfection, perfectly crispy, and served with scallion sour cream (no-brainer), and the Sunday donuts are a dream if you can get there before they run out. The star of the show is the Confit Tuna Melt, a confit tuna salad nestled between griddled potato pullman under a layer of cheddar cheese, served with two hot peppers and cabbage slaw. This is about as good as a tuna melt can get—the bread is as exceptional as the tuna, the cheese is just right, the vinegary, crunchy slaw is the perfect side. If I could personally thank Agi, Salamon’s grandma, for inspiring this sandwich, I would.
Portions aren’t huge but the food can be a bit heavy, so if you are a first-timer in a party of 2, get the sugared grapefruit, the confit tuna melt, and the Palacsinta (Hungarian Crepes). Go back for the Pogacsa and Country Club plate. Take my word for it ;)
*Reservations open up four weeks out, but brunch books up quick!!*
If you made it this far, you get the next brunch-y spots on my list!!!
Ugly Baby *They just added lunch!*
Salt’s Cure Yes I still haven’t been and yes I still want to go :)
See you next weeeeek!
I’m not a breakfast person but the suggestions and photos here make a strong argument to start (at least on the weekend) eating ASAP.
I want to live in ur NYC brunch world, this doesn't look stressful at all lol